Undaunted Foliage Sept 18 to Oct 19 2008

I have often told Elaine about the beauty of the New England fall when sugar maple trees display a riot of colors. However, my teaching schedule prevented us from taking a scenic trip during the autumn. We rectified that gap in our travels this past September and October. Now you too can share in the adventures of our Voyage of Discovery in "Undaunted Foliage" the story of four hardy (har har) travelers as they discover the beauty of autumn in northeastern USA and Canada, plus many other exotic happenings. The cast of travelers were: Elaine , who revelled in the leaves.



Sandy, who revelled in most everything.



Jim, our resident scholar.



Don,that's me! Our geographer and tour guide.



Jennifer, she is inside the covered wagon pictured. She was our GPS system which got us to our hotels, tourist places, parks, etc. without fail. She never even got mad or disgusted with us when we ignored her advice and followed other routes.



31 days and 7,000 miles together in this vehicle and we remain friends afterward. Pretty neat, eh? Settle back and enjoy the tale. The planning for this exploration into unknown territory (well, for the most part Jim & Sandy hadn't been to these places before and Elaine & I had been to maybe 30% of them before) began last year when I mentioned that I'd like to do a trip to see the leaves. In August, I spent 4 days at Jim & Sandy's home in Fort Collins, Colorado. During this time, the details of the trip were fleshed out and reservations were made. I'll make a pitch for http://www.priceline.com, which we used to make many of our hotel reservations. Some fantastic deals on rooms were obtained through their website. Some of the rooms were so so and some were well above anything where we would normally stay. On average, with taxes included, we paid $53 per night per couple for our rooms. The Internet was used to make other bookings (some hotels where priceline didn't seem to get us a deal, Broadway tickets, New York City bus tour, etc.). Jim & Sandy stayed with us on the 16th & 17th. Our travels together began early (5 AM) on September 18th. The destination was Anne's apartment in Bloomington, Indiana, a short 14 hour drive across the central USA, where we drove in the first 5 of 13 states and 5 Canadian provinces. Drivers switched every 2 hours, so no one ever drove more than 4 hours in day and many days some of us never drove. On our first drive we established a trip tradition of having a picnic lunch whenever and whereever. You can see that the weather was warm and sunny at our first stop in a park just outside of Macon, Missouri.



The view through Nebraska, Missouri, Illinois was pretty much corn and soy bean fields.



After a long day on the road, we were rewarded with an overnight stop at Anne's place. Anne has a room mate who is quite a playful kitty. "Sunshine" is his name.





Our next day's destination was Bexley, Ohio, a small city surrounded by Columbus, Ohio. On the way, we appreciated the beauty of rural Indiana and Ohio. During the trip, we often avoided interstate highways and took state, county and local roads to experience a better feel of the areas where we travelled. Around the world, wine drinking has gained in popularity. There are wineries all over the USA and Canada. We sampled wines as a subset of the foliage trip. Our first winery stop was the Ertel Winery just outside of Batesville, Indiana. I think I was the designated driver, so I left a few bottles on the shelf.





All smiles now, we proceeded towards Ohio. As we were passing near Cincinnati, a stop at Jungle Jim's International Market - Six Acres of Food Under One Roof in Fairfield, Ohio. Elaine & I discovered this place through a good friend who used to live in Indiana. I recommend that you use the Internet to take a look at this store. They don't allow indoor photography, so I am limited to showing you the outside of the store. There are inside views on the web.



Six acres of food under one roof. Jungle Jim's started out as a roadside fruit and veggie stand and it sort of got out of control. There are foods from every country you can imagine. The Italian food section is almost as large as our local grocery store. Desire a particular brand of wine, cheese, exotic fruit (durian), olive oil from Crete (Jim's favorite) you name it they have it. It is unlike anything I have ever seen in a grocery store. Don't start thinking Stew Leonard's or Whole Foods. They don't even come close to the uniqueness of Jungle Jim's. Supplies for subsequent picnic lunches were acquired and later enjoyed. On to Bexley, Ohio where we would stay 2 nights with Jan and Linda Zupnick, long time friends of Jim & Sandy. It was wonderful to take a break from driving for 2 days. That first day from Nebraska to Indiana was the longest stretch we would drive (over 700 miles in one day). During our stay, we enjoyed several restaurants, coffee shops (where we set up our lap top computers and looked like geeks), ice cream parlors, etc. The highlight was visiting the Columbus Zoo. Lots of mammals, birds, reptiles, etc. and well laid out enclosures - worth the trip if in the area.







Afterwards, we dined at a fine seafood restaurant (which shot the budget for the day); Elaine discovered that fresh clams make her ill (violently ill after we returned from the theater hours later). Following that, we went to a local Comedy Club (Shadowbox) and enjoyed "Raisin Hell." On Sunday, the 21st of September, we set our sights for Niagara Falls, NY. Taveled on state roads that hugged the shoreline of Lake Erie. It does take longer that way, but the payoff in scenery was worth it. Often there were large grape vineyards. Harvest was in process, but many had taken the day off (Sunday). Some were, no doubt, headed for the grape festival in Dunkirk, NY; which we were lucky enough to stumble upon. The grapes grown in this region are mainly concord grapes and are sold to the Welch's Company for jams, jellies and the like. However, the grapes at the grape festival were put to other uses, like coloring the town fountain.



Or, perhaps a piece of grape pie. Never heard of grape pie? Try it, it is yummy. Sandy purchased a piece of grape pie from a vendor. I mentioned that we came a long way for this festival (maybe an exaggeration, as we had just happened across it on our way to Niagara Falls), probably further than any of the other patrons. That got us a free piece of pie - oh, here, take a whole pie. Enjoyed that pie for the next 2days.



Would you just want to taste that juicy morsel as provided by the vine?.



Reached Niagara Falls, NY that evening. Our GPS system aka "Jennifer" got us right to the motel, the Red Carpet Inn. This was either the worst or second worst motel that we stayed in during the trip. Stayed there 3 nights. Only after complaining on 2 days, did they actually vacuum the room. The continental breakfast consisted of coffee, orange juice, stale oatmeal cookies and mini-doughnuts. Fortunately, there were other restaurant choices nearby. As we came to see the falls, we spent the better part of 2 nights and 1 day at the falls.

My first degree was earned from Niagara University. The city was pretty run down back then, but all has changed. New Casinos have replaced my favorite seedy bars and liquor stores. The river looks clean enough to drink (but I would suggest that you not do so) as opposed to the smelly liquid that it used to be. People may say that the Canadian side is much better than the USA side for viewing. Don't take that dated advice. Both sides deserve a look. I think the USA side is nicer, since the falls are viewed from a park. While on the Canadian side, you are on a monstrous concrete walkway all along the area where you can see the falls. Yet, I do admit the actual view of the falls is better on the Canadian side.





Plenty of ways to see the falls. You can see them from atop the gorge, as pictured above. You can see them at the base by taking the Cave of the Winds route.





Prefer a view from the water, try the "Maid of the Mist." The photo is a bit blurry, since the spray from the falls was intense.







The falls are colorfully lit at night. However a photo doesn't really due justice to the scene, you need to be there.



All of that water dropping over the escarpment made business people drool over the electric power potential. Back in the late 1800s, the first power generation facility was built quite near the falls. The principle then and now is the same, drain off some of the water before it goes over the falls, route it through pipes where it will drop and turn turbines. This first plant collapsed many years ago. While I was in college, I explored the old shafts amongst the rubble. There are old and modern facilities lining the gorge both near and far away from the actual falls. Pictured is an old Canadian facility.



Located 4.5 miles downstream, the Robert Moses Power Plant was completed in 1961 and offers free tours. It details the history of the area; the history of power generation at the falls, and offers fine views of the lower Niagara River. Water travels under and through the city of Niagara Falls in very large conduits and canals to a large reservoir, which can be used to generate additonal electricity immediately or later during peak demand periods.









My alma mater, Niagara University, borders the Power Plant and a nostalgic visit was made. Pictured are my freshman year dormitory, Clet Hall, one of my classoom buildings, St. Vincent Hall and O'Shea Hall, Sophomore and Junior year dorm. Many changes, in the form of new buildings and remodeling have occurred since those halicion days. I enjoyed talking to a few current students and regailing them with tales from long ago about NU.









Taking the group further down my memory lane, we ended up at Devil's Hole Park, where a trail of at least 310 steps (or was it 312?) takes one down the cliff to the Niagara River. Going down was easy, however the climb back up was not, but made the round trip and enjoyed watching the river close up.





Our travels in the Niagara area took us to the Welland Canal near St. Catherine's, Ontario, Canada. If one waits long enough, one can view a ship traversing one of the lock's on its travel from one of the Great Lakes to the Atlantic Ocean via the St. Lawrence Seaway. You can get an idea of the height that Lock #3 raises or lowers a vessel. The first Welland Canal was built 1824-1833. The canal lowered/raised a ship over a series of 40 locks so that it could travel from the Upper Niagara River to Lake Ontario, as going over the falls was a bit hard on the ships and crew. The locks accomodated the ships of the time; they were 110 feet log and 22 feet wide. The present canal is the fourth edition. It was completed in 1932, has 8 locks of 859 feet in length and 80 foot wide. Obviously the overall change in elevation has not changed, rather the each lock lift present day vessels much higher. Special ships have been constructed to fit the locks and they are the ones that a mainly used to haul cargo. If you have a powerboat, you can use the canal system also, as the falls route (over 200 foot drop all at once) is still chancy for most. I don't know what fee you have to pay, but we saw a few small boats, so it can't be prohibitive.





Another site visited was Old Fort Niagara on the shores of Lake Ontario. The first fort was built in 1679 when France and Britain contested power in this area. During the War of 1812 several battles occurred near the fort and the Fort Cemetery has graves from this era, and later times. In 1813, the fort fell to the British/Tory forces. During summers, period actors conduct re-enactments of the times and troubles of the fort.







Having stayed in Niagara Falls for 3 nights, we hit the road Wednesday, Sept 24th - destination Watertown, in far north New York State. Since it was not a long drive, we decided to take back roads most of the day. By interstate, we probably could make the drive in 3 hours - we took 10 our way; however, had experiences that are unavailable when taking the interstate.

Our first stop was at Lockport, New York. Lockport is named after the several locks of the Erie Canal which bisect this small city. The Erie Canal was the super-highway of its time. The first canal was completed in 1825. Just like the Welland Canal, it has been rebuilt over the years, the most recent enlargement was completed in 1917. Compare the locks to Welland's - 328 feet long and 45 feet wide. Only smaller freight carrying vessels can use this canal which takes one from the Hudson River, near Albany, New York to Lake Erie at Buffalo, New York. Didn't see ships of any size going through the locks. It appears that the canal is mainly used by local power boaters, fishers and tour boats. That might be fun to take a canal cruise. In the pre-motor powered era, mules would pull the boats by rope from a canal-side pathway. You can see wear marks on the stones from the ropes.







Here is the vessel we saw using the lock.



Moving along the Niagara Wine Trail, we viewed our first view of sugar maple colors.



Also viewed the apple harvest in full swing.



Hey, you two, get away from those apples.



And, stopped at a few wineries. The wines we sampled were all very good and we bought and consumed.



Marjim Manor Winery's tasting room is in this stately mansion. Built in 1843 it has a long history of untimely deaths and hauntings. An episode of "Ghost Hunters" was filmed there this year and aired on October 15th on the Sci-Fi Channel. We fully intended to try and watch it, but by then, we had forgotten all about Marjim Manor and its several varieties of fruit wines. We retain a bottle of the "Cat's Meow" (no, not cat pee wine) for our Christmas dinner with Anne this year. They have several cats living there, thus the name.





Picnic lunch was at a park in Olcot, NY on the shores of Lake Ontario. Later we stopped for an ice cream break at a roadside diner. The ice cream (maple walnut) was scrumptious. However, we were treated to an unapetizing sight; an overly large young woman wearing low rider jeans sitting on a stool revealing her many tramp stamp tatoos and her black thong. Too gross to have a photo of this. Oh, they serve a "glutton burger". 72 oz. of beef, a few rashers of bacon and other toppings. Although Jim was tempted, he resisted the urge to order the glutton burger.

We stayed in Watertown, NY and enjoyed dining at the oldest restaurant in town (est. 1919), the Crystal Restaurant. The menu was extensive (included such things as lamb chops, liver and onions, and fresh baked goods). The prices were unbelievably low for the portions. If ever in that area, treat yourself. The next morning, we went to the bank to change our US $ to Canadian. Two years ago, one would have received about $1.35 Cdn per US $. Got $1.04 US = $1 Cdn. Another effect of our profligate governmental spending and our trade balance.



Crossing the border was a treat. Forgot to declare the 3 bottles of wine we had bought and got a lecture from the Canadian border guards about answering questions honestly. Sandy asked what do you want us to do? Go back and refill the declaration? I had understood them to ask if we had alcohol not for personal consumption. They didn't fine us or take the wine, just gave us the lecture and we were on our way.

I consulted my AAA travel guides about this part of Ontario and saw that an interesting stop might be at Fort Wellington just outside of Prescott, Ontario. The fort is on the shore of the St. Lawrence River across from Ogdensburg, NY, which gives the reason for its existence. It was built during the War of 1812 to prevent enemy (that was us) encroachment into Canada. The fort never saw action.



The fort has the typical wooden palisades, after that massive earthworks provide protection and a great defensive position. There is only one way in, through a large portal, that is secured by thick wooden doors on the inland side. There are port holes in the door to let insiders shoot outsiders - ouch! As you can see, I managed to breach the defenses.



Three other insurgents also gained entry and did a reconaissance of the fort just in case the USA wants to take over Canada, we can give the government the plans of Fort Wellington. Inside is a large Blockhouse and other buildings to include officers and enlisted barracks. The Officer quarters was built for 2; however, the British officer refused to be quartered with his colonial (Canadian) counterpart and decided to live in town rather than associate with a non-British officer. Great ally, huh.





Inside the blockhouse, the arms, supplies and enlisted barracks were located. Our spying found that the weaponry they have wouldn't stand a chance against the M-16.



Don't these two look fearsome?



A tunnel extends to a position from which the river can be seen and riflemen could pick off anyone dumb enough to make a frontal assault - just land down river a mile or so and atack from the side. The fort almost saw action in 1838 during the rebellion (I never heard of any Canadian rebellion before, but there was one). A battle just down the road at Windmill Point defeated the rebels and their US allies. The Fort was staffed through WWI and is now a National Historic Park. We withdrew from the fort and slipped away for further adventures. PS. They have a very good visitor center and the staff are knowledgeable and friendly and do not hold anything against us for trying to make them part of the USA way back then. However, they still have a socety in Canada known as the Loyalist Society, which is made up of descendants of those who left the 13 colonies during the US War of Independence, as they wished to remain under the British Crown rule.

Our destination for the day was Montreal, a very busy city. Stayed at Comfort Inn in the western suburbs of the city center. Public transportation is convenient and inexpensive in Montreal - so, left the car and used a combination of bus and subway to get downtown the next day.

There was a nice young woman at the motel desk when we checked in. She was speaking to a customer and took a phone call, all in French. I thought, here we go, we'll have to make ourselves understood somehow to this French-speaking person. When we came up to the desk, she greeted us in perfect English, no French accent at all. We found this to be true throughout what is known as French Canada, which near as I can figure consists in all or part of the provinces of Quebec, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. In the province of Quebec, it seemed that everyone could speak in both languages without having an accent inappropriate to either. I thought that was pretty neat. Through a few conversations with this desk clerk, she revealed how she just wanted to get out of Canada and live in the USA and asked our advice on how to do so. My perception was that it wasn't that she didn't like Canada, but more she didn't like the bilingual system. I guess the grass is always greener on the other side of the border. The clerk was so helpful in giving us advice on where to eat reasonably and how to use public transport to get downtown and back (which bus # and where the bus stop on both ends of the ride were located). Took her advice and dined at the "Brasserie du Noir" on both nights in Montreal. The waiters were guys in their 30s or 40s and were very professional, and a lot of fun. One waiter takes drink orders and another takes the food order. They banter back and forth and get to know you. The next night, we had the same food waiter and his recall of who we were, where we were going etc. was very good.

Our day in Montreal was spent touring some of the sites downtown and taking a walk in the park. First stop, other than coffee, was the Notre Dame Basillica of Montreal. It was completed in 1829, but the first church on this ground dates back to a wooden structure built in 1642. Those of you who are fans of Celine Dion might know that she was married in this church in 1994. The photos tell you how ornate the inside of the church is. The stained glass windows each have a theme of an aspect of the settlement of Montreal. Our guide provided us with a good history lesson.









For some reason, I became interested in taking pictures of the flags we saw in the various provinces. Here are the provincial and city flags of Montreal. Guess I thought that they were pretty.





As we wandered about downtown, we would come across very old stone buildings. This one was built in 1800 (old for North America that is).



The name caught my eye when we crossed rue de San Sulpice (those of you who have read "The Da Vinci Code" might recall that name).



Of course, that gastronomic icon showed its presence.



The tour book said you could get a good view of the riverfront and port facilities from the top of the clock tower along the riverfront. Unfortunately, Montreal's tourist season was over for the year and we could only see the tower from the outside. However, we did see evidence of druggies using this place to get high, with several hypodermic needles lying around.



There are several buldings in the old part of the city of interest besides those already mentioned: the old city hall, the Bonsecours Market (which is full of shops for both locals and tourists) and churches everywhere.







Montreal means Mount Royal in English. A large park surrounds the mount. It is topped with a large cross and offers good views of the city. That was our goal. The trails wind all through the park and, for the most part, excludes cars (except for the quick way to the top). We enjoyed the next few hours on the walk up and down. The cross atop the mount was also closed for the season (being refurbished); however we did have nice views and appreciated some of the foliage along the way.









Autumn weather arrived while we were in Montreal, the daytime high was in the low 60s and the heat was turned on in our room that night.

We leave Montreal on Saturday, September 27th heading for Quebec City. Arrive in the city around 2 PM, giving us time to see sights and foliage. It is too early for full autumn colors in Quebec City, but we would see quite a color show later on.



Our first stop in the old city was the Plains of Abraham. This is the site of the famous battle in the French & Indian War in September of 1759. Quebec City sits atop a couple hundred foot rise in the land bordering the St. Lawrence River. No vessel could progress further inland unless the guns of Quebec were silent. General Wolfe surprised the French General Montcalm by attacking up the steep cliffs to the west rather than attack from the gentle slopes on the east end of the walled city of Quebec. About 10,000 troops were involved in the battle which determined that the British would control North America. The battle took only about an hour to conclude. An interesting fact of the battle is that both commanding generals died on the battlefield. I'm not sure that that has ever happened before or since. Today, the plains are a quiet park, with only a few monuments to remind us of the momentous event that happened here so long ago.









Vieux Quebec (Old Quebec) is the only remaining walled city in North American (USA & Canada). This city was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1995 and truly deserves that honorific. Quebec was my favorite city on the trip. Founded in 1608 by the Frenchman Samuel Champlain, after whom Lake Champlain in NY State is also named. French heritaqge is strong in Quebec and they remember their past, in many ways including the Champlain monument.




It is a delight to explore the old city, which we did over 2 days. There are plenty of fortifications dating from the earliest period, through the 1800s. pictured next is a defensive tower from 1776. General Benedict Arnold attempted to take Quebec from the British, but was unsuccessful. Before turning traitor, Arnold was seen as one of the Colonies' ablest generals.



The highest point along the river is dominated by The Citadel, a massive fortification.









The city is hilly, so get used to climbing steps.



I especially enjoyed listening to the buskers. They really were quite talented. These aren't street people out there trying to earn a few dollars. They are most likely musicians, maybe even band members, who decide why not practice outside, entertain people and maybe earn a dollar or two.











The accordian player looks a lot like Anne.

For the visitor there are all sorts of shops to explore.











You can further your intellect by taking in a museum. For instance, how about the museum of chocolate?





You can stroll through neighborhoods to see the beautiful old homes.





View an independence for Quebec protest (pretty small).



Visit with a park worker (oh maybe not).



When nature calls, just drop by the park rest room. A bit cleaner and more modern than we are used to for a public toilet.



Wherever you go in the old city, one view dominates and that is the Chateau Frontenac. Built in 1893, it remains a functioning luxury hotel. They charge $20 to go inside to tour it - so no inside photos do I have. It has a sister hotel in Banff and a replica just south of Branson, Missouri.





French Canada was very Catholic, and still is. Quebec City hosts one of the first cathedrals built in North America, the Basillica of Notre Dame de Quebec. The first chapel was built in 1615 and this edifice was begun in 1644 and has been reconstructed a few times since then. The ornateness of the interior makes them a draw to many, myself included.






Staying in the old city is very expensive and priceline could not get us a deal here. So, we found a shabby motel in Chateau Richter, with a wonderful family who have run it (or run it down) for 3 generations. As a consolation for the low quality rooms, they did offer a delicious free breakfast each morning. It was about 7 miles east of the city and had many attractions nearby - we visited a few.

Only a mile or two from our motel was an immense church, Sainte-Anne de Beaupre. It is reknown for the healings that have taken place there and there is a large column of crutches in the church that are from people who have been healed of mobility issues. The parish dates to 1648. This structure is the 4th church on this site and was built in 1923. Elaine & I attended mass here - it can accomodate 3,000 worshippers. There were maybe 100 in attendance at mass. During the mass, they alternate from speaking French and English. The sermon is given in both languages. The whole area and Quebec city gives you the feeling that you are in Europe.



This area east of Quebec city is both a summer and winter resort area. Autumn is a good time to avoid the crowds and seek out the scenery. As you drive the main highway leaving Quebec City a big surprise awaits you. All of a sudden on your left a very large waterfall can be seen. This is Montmorency Falls. We returned there one night and enjoyed the spectacle. As 2008 is the 400th anniversary of the founding of the city, we were treated to a distance view of the nightly fireworks. There are many other waterfalls tucked away in the area. If you are into such things, this is a good place to be.





There are several wineries. The wine industry is relatively new to this part of Canada, since it is only recently that the climate is warm enough to grow wine grapes. There are many positives about global warming, and expansion of the wine industry is one of them. Vignoble Domaine Rayarnois Winery is about 5 miles east of our motel. It is near Cap-Tourmente, where there is a wildlife refuge. We happened upon a large flock of snow geese near the winery. This winery is quite new and the wines were not to our liking.







Our luck was better at the winery Moulin du Petit Pre. Translation: On the small hill). First of all, it is located on a hillside that overlooks the St. Lawrence River. Second, the wine was very good. Finally, we recognized the staff as having a distinctly New Zealand accent. They were our age and were travelling the world and had a friend who owned the winery. They work for him and also offer tasty foods for sale (of which they get the funds). Spent a few hours there talking wine and New Zealand.



This tree's foliage was just so pretty.



Sister Geraldine, my French teacher in high school is owed a debt of thanks from me, as I found it very easy to read the French signage. The spoken word is not so easy to understand, as each person speaks at a different speed and with a slightly different accent. However, as everyone we spoke with also spoke English, this was not an issue. However, signage and other textual material posed no difficulty.

The following morning we face our third longest drive of the trip. The drive from Quebec City to Moncton, New Brunswick. The drive takes us through very sparsely inhabited farm and forest areas bordering northern Maine . The foliage along the route is amongst the best seen on the whole trip. I have included one or two taken from the car (they are a little blurred), but the colors are just too brilliant to not include. If you have not been clicking on the pictures to see the enlarged version, I encourage you to do so for this first photo - a whole hillside in full color, exquisite.









It is dark when Jennifer guides us to the Residence Inn, where we stay for the next 5 nights. After the shabby motel in Quebec, this place is unbelievable. It rents for $450 a night (Priceline got it for $45 plus tax); the rooms are luxurious; each morning, a full hot breakfast is complementary. Waffles, scrambled eggs, bacon, sausage, fruit, hot and cold cereal, yoghurt, etc. Coffee and tea available throughout the day. On two nights they had a free dinner - pizza, sodas and hamburgers. The rooms have full kitchens, so on the other nights, we prepared our own meals. It was also nice to have a home base for 5 days, as we had been staying 1, 2 and 3 nights up to this time. From this base of operations, we were able to easily tour three provinces: New Brunswick, Nova Scotia and Prince Edward Island.







I'll treat our time in the Maritimes by Province, rather than chronologically. Moncton is the province's largest city (126,000), followd by St. John (122,000) & the capitol Frederickton (85,000). The provincial flag is quite pretty (so I think).



Deciding what to see and do is always a problem, as there are so many things possible, but, oh so few days. Feeling like a nature walk, we depart for Bouctouhce Sand Dunes located on the Northumberland Strait. Along the way, oyster farming is seen on the waters. The large windfarm on Prince Edward Island is also visible across the waters. Bouctouche is the northenmost place in North America with large sand dunes. To protect the dunes and wildlife from disturbance, a 2 km boardwalk allows access without degredation. It was a cool and cloudy day, but we did see bird life - Much of it had already migrated south. First photo is an oyster farm.





New Brunswick is Canada's only constitutionally bi-lingual province. I'm surprised that Quebec isn't, but Wikipedia says this is so. About 1/3 of the population speaks French as their first language. To comply with the law, you see bi-lingualism everywhere. I wonder at the cost that this incurs.



The Bay of Fundy separates New Brunswick from Nova Scotia. A certain peculiarity in the way the Bay is situated and how tides work, results in the Bay of Fundy having the highest tides ever recorded (over 52 feet rise). A particular oddity that I had heard about was the Reversing Falls in St. John. When it is low tide, the falls flow seaward - when high tide, they flow inland. Had to see this. The tide here is about 26 feet. The falls appear more like a rapids. The photos show the same perspective, one taken at low tide and one at high tide. We were also there at slack tide, when the current just stops for 15 minutes. We were told that on the incoming tide, salt water is pushed 150 miles inland.






If ever in St John, I'd recommend seeing the New Brunswick Museum. Like many museums, no photography is allowed - so no photos. The exhibits trace the natural history of the Province and the human history. Some exhibits are interactive, and all are excellent. Since there is 6 hours between low and high tide, I spent my interlude at the museum.

Prince Edward Island (PEI) was the second of the three Maritime Provinces that we spent time on. The novel, "Anne of Green Gables" takes place on PEI. I have never read the book, but apparently many have, as that is the big tourist draw for the island.



PEI is probably one of the least visited provinces of Canada, for until 1997 the only access was by ferry or airplane. However, in 1997 the Confederation Bridge opened, which linked New Bruswick with PEI via a 13 km bridge (about 8 miles). Even now, it is not highly visited, as the toll for the bridge for an auto is $41.50 (you only pay on leaving the island). PEI is the smallest Province at around 2,200 square miles - there is a county in Nebraska that rivals PEI in size.



Another Province, another flag.



While small, there is certainly enough to see and do to keep on busy for weeks. I'd camp there for a month if it weren't for the resident mosquito population in some areas. The mossies forced us to have our picnic lunch in the car. Even on the beach, there they were. This one will bother no one else.



It was history lesson time and we stopped at the site of Port LaJoie and Fort Amherst to get better acquainted with the Acadian saga. After England took possession of French Canada in the 1760s, the presence of all those French people on now British soil posed a problem. One solution was to expell them. On PEI they shipped 3,000 of them back to France. As they did not travel first class, a great number of them (50%) died en route. The empty lands were then given to rich Brits who became absentee land lords. Those were nasty times. This fort guarded the entrance to Charlottetown Harbour, the capitol of PEI. As usual, we arrived after tourist season, so the visitor center was closed, but the earthworks and surrounding parkland was open to strolling.









After enjoying the fort, we drove in to Charlottetown to attempt to souvenir shop and grab a coffee. There wasn't much happening in town. It seems to be mainly a head of gov't and college town. The bridge is new enough that tourists are something not all that common if one can infer that from the lack of t-shirt shops and the other businesses that go along with tourism. Even this appropriately named coffee shop was closed.





One odd thing, the stop light shape was square. On some lights, the yellow light was diamond shaped. Those who are red-green color-blind now know where to go to live with your disability. PS Pack your mosquito repellant if you do move to PEI.



Outside of the city, it is very rural. Cattle, sheep, hay and potatoes everywhere. Very nice.



Our next stop was PEI National Park, which runs along much of the north coast of the island. We did get out of the car and go down to te beach - but the mosquitos encouraged us to not tarry.






Our final stop was at the headquarters of the Great Canadian Soap Co. It is a roadside shop, operated by a family. They make their soap using goat milk. They have a bucket of corn accessible to visitors who are encouraged to feed the goats (no charge). They do have a website and you can order over the web or by toll-free phone. Here are the goats and the soap.









The owner/manager talked about his soap and soap, in general. Three of the four of us learned a lot from this man. If you check your basic bar of what you think is soap, you will find that nowhere on a package of "Dove", "Ivory", "Irish Spring" or whatever you clean your body with will you find the word "soap". That is because the required ingredients of soap are not contained in your basic "beauty bar", "body wash" etc. Soap has been replaced by man-made chemicals, which are, incidentally, banned in Europe and Japan. The owner/manager stated that these ingredients dry the skin and create conditions that are ideal for rashes and other dermitological issues. I have since checked in the stores, and sure enough, it isn't Ivory Soap anymore. Incidentally "Softsoap" is a meaningless word and the product does not contain soap. We have begun using only soap, as Elaine has had rashes from such non-soap products. Why use those chemicals - easy, they are much less expensive.

Our final Maritime Province visited was Nova Scotia (New Scotland). Let's get this out of the way first of all. Here's their flag and the Acadian flag, which is the French flag with a star on the blue field.





I was surprised when I learned that Nova Scotia was the second smallest province of Canada. Here is another place where one could spend months and not see it all. So, our one-day is not representative of all that can be seen and done. We were mainly interested in the tides, as this area of the Bay of Fundy gets the record tides. Crossing the border from New Brunswick, we stop at the visitor center, where a very helpful greeter lets us know where the best places to stop are. We know the low and high tide times and hope to be at a certain place at both low and high tide.



We choose to follow the Glooscap trail which hugs the shores of Cobequid Bay, an arm of the Bay of Fundy. The record tide (52 feet) occurred here at Burncoat Lighthouse.

low tide





high tide





We made other coastal stops and were treated to views of low and high tide. I spoke with a local fisherman who told me he catches sea bass from the shore weighing up to 40 pounds, wow! Less than 10 pounds and you have to release the fishy.



Most of the countryside is devoted to small farming. Came across a pumpkin harvest.



Visited the botanical gardens of Acadia University in Wolfville, NS. Was that ever an out of the way town.



After 9 days in Canada, we set our sights for Calais, Maine, USA. Dust off the passports and fully expect a grilling from the normally unfriendly USA border patrol. They disappoint us by being friendly and courteous - guess I'll have to alter my opinion.



This is blueberry country - unfortunately, the season was a month ago. Here's a blueberry patch in autumn.



We drive the rural roads of Maine and see about zero other vehicles. Treated to more colorful foliage.





Some felt the need for a coffee stop. Found a place in Machias, Maine named the Country Tea Time. Should have figured that they do not serve coffee, only teas. So, we had tea and baked goods.

Connected with US highway 1, which goes from the Maine-Canada Border to Key West, Florida (see earlier slutigram on 2008 Florida trip). In 9 months, Elaine & I had seen both ends of this highway.

We stop at Columbia Falls (more like a rapids) to stretch our bones. Lost Jim at this point. I really didn't mean to push him over the falls, it was an accident. Just joking Jim.





We find our motel in Trenton, Maine (next 3 nights) and have lobster dinner at Lunt's Lobster Pound. A treat. The lobsters are cooked outside in large vats.





Several years ago, Drs. Larry and Betty Theye, two of UNK's professors, were vacationing in this area and happened to drive by a gorgeous home situated on the seashore of Penobscott Bay in Belfast, Maine. They bought it and have retired and moved here. Elaine & I visited them in 2001. Made a return visit and enjoyed their hospitality at their traditional Sunday champagne toast.



Now we are off to Acadia National Park for the next 2 days. This was our third time here. Acadia is my favorite national park. It was the first national park east of the Mississippi - founded in 1919 as a donation from very rich landowners: Rockefellers, Astors, Fords, Vanderbilts, Morgans etc. Back then, they didn't have tax deductions gifts. Thanks long ago generous rich folks. Samuel Champlain mentioned this area when he sailed by in 1604. Acadia is a mix of rugged seacoat, rocky cliffs, secluded ponds, hiking trails and great camping (in the summer).









Jordan Pond offers a scenic trail which, in 3.3 miles, circles the secluded pond. As the tourist season is pretty much over, we see very few others; unlike the crowds that we experienced in 2001. The trail is level and offers great views.







This formation is known as "The Bubbles" a prudish description of what anyone else would call "the breasts."



Here, I make sure that the eagles are not stalking us.



Cadillac Mountain, at 1530 feet, is the highest summit on the Atlantic coast north of Brazil. Fortunately, you can drive almost all the way up and then take a short trail to the summit. Great views.





Of course, one can see lighthouses.



On Tuesday, 7 Oct., we hop in the car and head for New Hampshire. Must stop at L.L. Bean in Freeport, Maine and see the icon of catalogue selling of outdoorsman goods. Had our lunch in the parking lot - looks like we are suffering, right?



We toot the horn as we cross state and provincial borders. So, toot - we are now in NH. Another great priceline hotel a Marriott property - Fairfield Inn (cost $35). We stay one night in Merrimack and two nights in Nashua at Extended Stay Hotel ($30 with full kitchen). While in Merrimack, I receive a call on our cell phone (yes, the Slutis now have one of those things, plus a laptop, and for Christmas we are getting a GPS for the car.) Can you say:



Yeah, when pigs fly, the Slutis will get one of those things.

Back to the phone call . . . When Jim & I were planning the trip, we checked out how to get tickets for the David Letterman Show in New York City. For our international amigos, that is a late night comedy show, filmed in the afternoon in NYC. Demand for tickets exceeds seats, so they use a lottery system to give away the tickets. To win the tickets, you have to answer a question about the show. Since I have never watched the show, my chances of answering the question correctly were nil. However, I passed the phone to Jim, who answered the question correctly. Got the tickets for the afternoon of October 15th.



Unfortunately for Jim, he had lost his cell phone somewhere along the trip - thus he never received a call and could not get tickets. They limit it to 2 tickets and verify by picture ID that you are the person who is supposed to get tickets.

Decide to spend one day touring rural NH and one day in Boston.

I made a couple of suggestions of places to see and the rest agreed. Off to Hillsboro, NH home of our only NH born US president, the 14th president who is...
guess again .... give up? None other than Franklin Pierce - not really a household name. He occupied the White House from 1853-1857, right between the terms of Millard Filmore and James Buchanan. How soon the famous are forgotten. We arrived at his childhood home ready for a tour. Darn, closed for the season.



Oh well, I take a photo of the place.



I notice two cars pulling into the driveway. A couple had arranged an out-of-season private tour. They asked if we would like to see the inside of the home, built in 1803. Yes, thank you.

We spend the next couple of hours learning so much about the man, his family and his home. The guide was 73 and has been giving the tour for 22 years. The sign says no photos inside; however, Jim doesn't see the sign and starts taking photos. The guide says nothing - so, I got out the camera and clicked away. After seeing how the rich lived 200 years ago, I cannot imagine how the poor lived.

Here's the guide, Sandy and Elaine. Just can't get Elaine to stop working.



I have many interior photos, here are a few:



The ceiling borders are stencilled.





Here's Frank (tour guide called him that), with his stylish comb-over.



Our guide tells us that Hillsboro is also famous for its stone arch bridges. He gives us directions to see a few of them. Built in the mid-1800s for about $100 each, they still support traffic up to 10 tons today. Maybe we can get the plans to our local roads department.





The next destination is the Enfield, NH Shaker Village. The Shakers were a religious sect that was foundedd in the 1790s. They lived communally, segregated by sex. Celebacy was a major tenet of the faith - not too good for next generation planning. All adherents were converts, as you were unlikely to be born to celebate parents. They prospered and spread through the northeast USA even out to Kentucky. However, they all are pretty much gone now. Here is where they lived, worked, worshipped and died. Quite an impressive structure. No interior photos allowed. Place is full of shaker furniture.









As the religion declined, the Shakers abandoned Enfield and sold it to the Catholic Church. The church built a chapel on the grounds.









On the way back to Nashua, we pass Lake Mascoma - had to take this reflection photo.



Thursday, and Boston is on the agenda. If you have been to Boston, you may remember how narrow the roads are and how hard it is to find a place to park. We decide to drive to Lowell, Massachusettes (MA) and take the commuter train into the city.

I must digress for a moment. As you know, I grew up in Connecticut. Other than family, I have not kept in touch with people from there. However, about a year ago, my high school was organizing a reunion, which I did not attend. During the process of getting notices, a classmate and I began emailing. We were in just about every class together, as there was an honors group and we pretty much followed a set curricula for the group, with only a few exceptions in senior year. Long story short, Mary was going to meet us in the Boston train station and tour Boston with us.

So it was important to be on the right train. Naturally we left the room a few minutes later than we planned. Of course, we had to stop for breakfast. Of course traffic was heavy and of course, we missed a turn. However, we arrived at the station with 3 minutes to spare. That is before parking the car. I quickly exited the car, bought my ticket and was on the train just before it moved out. The rest of the group missed the train. However, at least one of us would meet Mary on time.

The group arrives at the station in Boston an hour after I do. Mary was there waiting when I arrived on time and we spend the hour talking and getting to know one another.



The day is spent on the Freedon Trail, a walking trail laid out in a loop (with some digression from the loop), that takes one to the major sites of the American Revolution in Boston and Charlestown.



Our first stop is the USS Constitution. Strictly speaking, this is not part of Revolutionary War history, since the war ended in 1783 and the shipped was lauched in 1797. However, "Old Ironsides" is the oldest active vessel of the US Navy. The ship is not made of iron, it is made of oak - but the cannonballs of that era would just bounce off it as if it were made of iron. There are whole books on the ship, so I won't go into detail. A visitor center and museum are also on this site at Charlestown Navy Yard. It is free and you can go on and below deck. Active US Navy personnel are in period uniform and answer any and all questions about this historic vessel.







"Don't shoot until you see the whites of their eyes." A famous quote from the misnamed Battle of Bunker Hill, fought in 1775. The main battle was actually fought on Breed's Hill, where the Bunker Hill Monument is located. Muskets were extremely inaccurate, that's why soldiers could stand up in a British square or line and fire at each other and miss. So, the quote means, don't waste your ammo, you won't hit anything at a distance anyway. Also, the Americans only lost the battle when they ran out of powder and shot. Lost the battle only means that they left the field. Actual casualties were in favor of the Americans in both killed and wounded.





Is it lunch time already? Ate at the Warren Tavern, the oldest operating eating establishment in Charlestown (est 1780). The young waitress had a very thick Bostonian accent, which you don't often hear, even in Boston. Lovely lunch.





Next stop was the Old State House, where the Declaration of Independence was first read in Boston from the balcony.



Nearby, is the site of the March 5, 1770 Boston Massacre. Marked only by a circle of bricks in the middle of an intersection. I guess tranportation is more important than remembrance.



Nearby is the Old South Meeting House, where in 1773 the particpants in the Boston Tea Party assembled prior to tea time.



The Quincy marketplace and Fauneil Hall carry out commercial functions just as they have for 250 years. Today it is mainly fast food, souvenir shops and a welcome rest room. The square outside is full of street entertainers. Too many rappers making their "music" for us to tarry.





Like all of us, even those famous folks passed on. Their graves are scattered in 3 downtown cemeteries.







Mary leaves for her trip back to Cape Cod, where she lives. We will catch up again with Mary on Saturday. Ride the MTBA back to the train station. This is the infamous MTA from the early 1960's Kingston Trio song "The man who never returned." A song of protest about raising the subway fare in Boston from 10 cents to fifteen cents. Well Trio, today it's $2 for a ride.



Our next stop is Cape Cod. We leave for the Cape on Friday 10 October - it is only a 53 mile drive from motel to motel - so we have plenty of touring time.



"Mention Cape Cod & people think of different things - swimming and sunbathing, fishing and whaling, clams and cranberries, writers and artists, cottages and shops, Pilgrims and American Indians." (National Park Serivce Brochure). I think of sand. Sand, where in 1965 my 1949 Dodge got stuck in the sands of Cape Cod. Haven't returned until this trip.

We cross the Channel Bridge after a short drive from our hotel in New Hampshire (states are small out east) and are officially on Cape Cod. Our first stop is the Pairpoint Glass Factory, where we observe glass blowing on a commercial scale.



Next, the Dexter Grist Mill, which dates from 1654, located in one of the oldest towns on the Cape. The 1830 First Church of Christ building, designed by Christopher Wren, is in the center of Dexter. Wren was a well-known English architect who designed many Federalist style buildings in Washington DC. Don't know how he ended up here.







After lunch, we head up the Cape to Provincetown (the very tip of the Cape). The Visitor Center at Salt Pond Marsh orients us to when and how the Cape was formed and some highlights of what to see. Pretty views from here and some good leaves.





Had to see some of the beaches; Ballston Beach is accessible by a short path over large sand dunes and affords us views of the Atlantic seashore.





Even the poison ivy gets into the spirit of fall foliage.



Reach the tip of the Cape at Provincetown, more sand, more sea. The motel was at the other end of the Cape. Jennifer guides us, without fail, to the Red Mill Motel in South Yarmouth. Pretty nice place, with complete kitchen and a moldy refrigerator, which the owner and mother promptly come and clean. As business is slow, if something gets spilled in the fridge, it may be a week before the room is rented again; thus, the mold.

Next morning we are off to Wareham, MA for the annual Cranberry Festival. Mary had mentioned this as a possible stop when she was with us in Boston. Never been to a cranberry festival. Well, it is all about cranberries - surprise!. Admission was $2 - did we ever get our money's worth. A bus takes us to a cranberry bog, where the harvest is in full swing. The fields are flooded so that machines can come in to harvest the berries. A video was shown tracing the histor of the Cape Cod Cranberry industry. Here are few shots of what we saw. Yes, that is a semi-trailer full of berries.









The bus returned us to the main exhibit area. Good thing we arrived early, as the line for the bus had no one in it when we arrived, but now was a couple hundred people long. Go early. Toured the exhibits and had a sample of local cuisine. Something called "Jag" was featured by one food stall. A tasty dish of rice, opnions, greens and sausage. In the crafts tent, with her KoalaCaddies was Mary. She had generously baked a delicious apple pie for us to pick up when we met her at the Festival. Sorry that there isn't a photo of the pie - but we stopped at a rest stop and ate the whole pie at one sitting. The KoalaCaddie (patent pending) is Mary's creation for knitters. If you want info her product, let me know. Mary gave Sandy and Elaine their own KoalaCaddie, they can show you one if you are in our area.



Mid-afternoon finds us on the road to Danbury, Connecticut, next to Brookfield, the town where I was raised. I caught a nasty cold in Boston, and opt to stay in bed while the rest of the group eats at the overpriced "Outback Steakhouse" next to the hotel.

This is my childhood home - look at the sugar maple colors. That particular tree has always had a vivid fall cloak.



Had a good visit with my two brothers who still reside in CT (others are in Flordia and California). David treated us to a scrumptious dinner followed by his famous blueberry pie. All these pies makes me want to do this trip again. After that we spend the evening with my brother Paul. Good to catch up with Paul, as I haven't seen him in several years. David visits us every summer, we enjoy our time with him.

Before leaving Brookfield, I take the fellow travelers on a cook's tour of Brookfield. Then, off to the Big Apple, New York City, for three days of glitz, glitter and crowds. Enjoy breakfast with friends, Tarome and Milva Alford. Met Tarome in Kearney, where he used to work. He and wife now live in Manchestr, CT. Good to see him again.



Jim found a decent place to stay in the Bronx (with taxes less than $100 a night). It was half a block from the mass transit station (rail line is elevated in the Bronx and becomes a subway in Manhattan. Our vehicle is parked for three days (free parking at hotel) and the subway becomes the means of transport. It takes about an hour to get from hotel to downtown Manhattan. It is Columbus Day, a holiday for most New Yorkers, so the streets and traffic are less congested





Grayline offers a step-on step-off bus pass good for touring Manhattan. Pricy, but it is unlimited local transport while in Manhattan. The lower island loop tour is our first activity, after getting sustenance that is. We find that the subway is faster than relying on this bus for much of our needs while in NYC.





On the upper floor, which is open air, we see tall buildings, historic buildings and sites. Learn little known useless facts, like there are only 12 gas stations on Manhattan and in a city of 7 million people, only about 4% of the residents own a car. Gas is $4.50 a gallon. Here is Columbus Circle (just on the edge of Central Park)?



Times Square, where New Years Eve is so raucously celebrated. Nigth and day photos.





Hope you noticed that Mc Donald's has it's presence. Which brings to mind my epiphany regarding NYC. Growing up only 50 miles away, the few times that I came to NYC left me with the impression of a dirty, unfriendly and dangerous place. Has this ever changed. I wouldn't say it was spotlessly clean, but one doesn't see litter everywhere. What I saw was people whose job it is to clean up what little litter there was. One guy had a broom and a long handled pan - he even went after cigarette butts. Previously, the only people picking up cigarette butts were the bums, who would smoke them. Bad habit. Opinion change: NYC is a clean place. All the seedy bars and porn shops that used to dominate Time Square are gone - replaced by fast food joints and tourist attractions. The tour guide said derisively that it was now Disney NYC. If we had a map or guidebook out,invariably a local would, without being asked for help, stop and ask if we needed help. If we wanted to know where the subway stop was or the best way to get someplace, the information was given and given in a friendly manner. Opinion change: NYC is full of friendly people. Not once did I feel any sense of danger. Sure, there are still crimes, but the crime rate has dropped so low as to be one of the safest large cities in the USA. Now, I don't advise going down any dark alley at night - but we did walk the streets at night and never felt unsafe. Opinion change: NYC is not especially dangerous. Having said this, there is a very large and obvious police presence, which I am sure has helped.

Elaine and I were not interested in seeing Ground Zero - it is just too sad to even think about. Jim and Sandy did go, but we did other things. The day tour was of lower Manhattan, the night tour was the same loop plus a Brooklyn tour. Saw the Empire State Building (day and night).





My favorite building in NYC is the Chrysler Building. Walter Chrysler, founder of his eponymous firm, was born in Wamego and raised in Ellis Kansas - Elaine & I toured his childhood home a few years ago.



Something I never noticed before, and brought to my attention by the tour guide was that on top of all of the tall buildings there are wooden water towers. The purpose is to provide water in the event of a fire, as the hydrant water pressure cannot raise a column of water above a certain floor level. They do look sort of shabby.





Finding restrooms is always an issue and after a frantic search, we find one at Rockefeller Center.




:
Saw a lot more. Friendly NYPD



Unusual parking arrangements.



Parking is not cheap.



Hungry? Enjoy any one of hundreds of local eateries (avoid the chain places).



Arrive back at our hotel at 11 PM. Which is late for me.

Elaine and I are up and out very early, as we want to spend the morning at the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island. The subway ends at Battery Park and now have to figure out how to get to the ferry to the statue. Several locals give us directions and wish us a fun-filled day. To get on board, you go through the type of security that we have become accustomed to (I hestitate to say used to) at airports. At the statue, the procedure is repeated. I think how ironic to be subject to such behavior at the State of "LIBERTY."



Great views of the Manhattan skyline from the ferry.



The statue is as wonderful and impressive as I always imagined. Given by the people of France in 1886, to celebrate the long-standing friendship between the people of France and the USA. Mr. Eiffel, of tower fame, designed and built lady liberty. I can only say "merci beaucoup Francais."





Think you have big feet? A big nose? Here are some stats: Heighth ground to tip of torch 305 ft. (92.99 meters); statue itself is 151 ft. Length of nose 4 ft. 6 in.



Next stop is Ellis Island, the portal through which my grandparents and 12 million others entered this land of plenty between 1892 and 1923. A self-guided tour takes one through the main building. Many other buildings on the island await future restoration.







Leaving there, the ferry returns to battery park. On the way, the Staten Island Ferry churns past. A free ferry to that island. Next visit, I plan to take that ferry - just didn't have the time this trip.



It is not called Battery Park because they made batteries. The southernmost tip of Manhattan guards the port of New York. There, an artillery battery was located - Fort Clinton, named after a long ago governor of NY. No, not Bill. Although if it were named Fort Gore, I'm sure Al would say it was named after him.



After this, we head uptown to get tickets to the Letterman Show. The process involves a lot of waiting (about 2.5 hrs. for a 1 hr show). They coach you on how to behave during the taping. While waiting, Elaine feels a need for coffee. We end up at a local McDonald's (on 48th Street). It is filthy. There was only one unisex bathroom, with only one toilet in a crowded place. Elaine stands in line for what must have been at least 30 minutes for her moment of glory. A panhandler (beggar) approaches every table asking for food money. He swears at everyone in a loud voice. The manager chooses to ignore the situation and allow abuse of the customers. Ah, this is the New York that I remember. Finally, at 4:45PM get in to the show. Josh Brolin and Amy Sedaris are guests as is John Poppart (guest singer). Each touts their respective new book, movie, album -- whatever. Amy Sedaris is the highlight as she was extremely funny. This evening, we take the night Grayline tour, see prior night pictures.

Wednesday: Elaine & I take the Grayline uptown loop tour. Which parallels Central Park and is routed through Harlem. Plan to meet up with Jim & Sandy in Central Park later in the morning. I am astounded by the difference in Harlem from the last time I was their in the 1970s with my college roomie and best friend Bill Lucas. Then it was positively dumb to be a white person walking in Harlem. No more, I saw black, white, Asian, Hispanics all on the streets of Harlem. Famous sites, like the Apollo Theater and various ethic eateries welcome all. What a wonderful change.





We meet Jim & Sandy in Central Park. Stroll down its shady lanes, enjoy a snack, view hundreds of others with friends, families or by themselves enjoying the beautiful day in the park. The Park is so changed from years ago, when it was infested with thieves, rapists, murderers and Democrats. Oh, I'm informed that the Democrats are still there. Well, the other unsavory types have been cleared out and families now are in possession of its recreational resources.







Loads of monuments to famous folks in the park. Here's Robbie Burns, famous Scottish Literary figure. We last saw Robbie in my March 2007 slutigram of Dunedin, New Zealand



I part with the others, who will enjoy a Broadway Play this afternoon. The play is enjoy "August Osage County." With only limited time, I choose to go elsewhere.



While on the uptown loop, I see my afternoon destination, The American Museum of Natural History. I am ready to pay the $12 or was it $18 admission. I'm in luck, Wednesday is Senior day. That'll be $1. I thoroughly enjoy the exhibits and would recommend this to any and all. I have about 50 photos - I'll include 4. The wild animal exhibits are life like.



The dinosaur section has our old friend from Jurassic Park, T. Rex. He looks a little thin and hungry, but has a nice smile.



How about famous gold nuggets?



Or various cultures of the world. To inlcude Godzone. That's New Zealand.



Closing time, finds me only half way through a quick 3-hour view of the Museum. I hop a subway (see how easy it is) to Chinatown, where I am to meet up with the other 3 travelers. Chinatown: sights, smells and people.

Jim & Sandy's daughter-in-law is Chinese and she used to live in NYC. Fondly (her Americanized name) recommends this restaurant, especially for its dim sum - which we all like.



Nice looking interior and great food. I must have been overtired at this point, because soon this pretty tablecoth got a bit messy when I spilled Elaine's full cup of tea, right before knocking over a dish of soy sauce. Elaine politely requested that I refrain from touching any other liquids, lest we get tossed out before the meal arrived. No, I had not even had one drink.



Food shops line the sidewalks with familiar and unfamiliar items. Like some eel?





Very few signs in English.



The local constabulary brings in two.



Thursday October 16th, we make our escape from New York City. Rising very early to avoid the traffic, in 15 minutes we cross the George Washinton Bridge into New Jersey. Traffic is very light, as everyone else is going the other way. We stop at a Denny's somewhere in eastern Pennsylvania for breakfast. The NYC leg of our trip was fantastic! We drive to the Cleveland, Ohio area that day and just relax in the room that evening.

Surprisingly, the traffic is very light on the way to Chicago. We arrive at Jim & Sandy's son's(Kelly) apartment in Andersonville, a short distance from downtown. Have dinner and good visit at his place and then go to our hotel.

Next morning, Elaine & I take the "El" to downtown and then a bus to the Museum of Science and Industry. We spend the day learning from the fascinating exhibits.



View a chick hatching.



A very interesting talk on the earth and other planets has a blank globe suspended, upon which each planets features are projected as the docent speaks on that particular orb.



Had to chuckle at this. The train station had a high-tech digital display clock. Click on the photo and see how it dealt with a time change.



After a day at the museum, we take bus and el to meet Jim, Sandy and Kelly for dinner. Had a good time and great meal. Rather than inconvenience Jim by having him drive us home, we take the el - big mistake. No problem getting back to the station near the hotel. The hotel has a free shuttle to the train station - so Elaine calls and they say they'll be right there. After 40 minutes, no shuttle. Call again, we'll send them right away. 20 more minutes, no shuttle. We decide to walk back to the hotel (only a 10 minute walk, they offer a shuttle so why walk especially at night). So we end up wasting over an hour waiting. Another thing, we had called the day we got in to Chicago to let them know we would come in late and to assure that they would have a refrigerator in the room (which they advertise as an amenity). We check in, no fridge. Oh, we're all out of them. So why bother calling early. We wanted one the next night also, same result. I give this as a reason why I would not count on any promises made by this hotel: Chicago O'Hare Garden Hotel. Must, admit, the room was nice. By the way, we did not use Priceline to get this reservation.

Sunday morning, October 19th, we make the long drive from Chicago to Kearney. "Undaunted Foliage" is now a pleasant memory of all that we saw and did during those 32 days.