Saturday, October 17, 2015

Alaska – Part 1 - getting there and Glacier Bay

 
It was a good long run, starting on February 26, 1845 and going through January 3, 1959, Texas at 268,820 square miles had the claim to be the largest state of the USA (with the exception of the 4 years when it had seceded during the War Between the States, AKA the Civil War).  On that date, Alaska, at 663,268 square miles (every source I look at has a different size from 583,000, to 591,000 and Wikipedia with the 663,000 square mile), joined the union of states after a long period of being a possession, then a territory, after its purchase from tsarist Russia in 1867 for less than 2 cents per acre.  Hey, it is a lot of acres (over 424 million of them).  This purchase was initially know as Seward’s Folly or Seward’s icebox, as people of the 1860’s could see no foreseeable use for such an empty frozen land.  Empty and frozen it remains to this day, except in the few, scattered settlements and its three main cities, Anchorage, Juneau and Fairbanks.  


 Going to Alaska has been on our minds for many years.  What got us up there was our trip to Wisconsin in 2013 (see slutigram posted May 2014).  During that trip, we got together with my cousin Gary and his wife, Elaine.  Alaska was on their agenda also, and they seemed like people we could travel with (we were right).  Like us, they were not enamored of the cruise way of seeing the state, so we did some joint planning and came up with taking the Alaska State Ferry System to get up there and then having a tour company do bookings for us.  I initially thought that I could do all the bookings, like I have done in the past with Europe, N.Z. and Australia trips.  I soon found that Alaska posed so many unknowns, that using an agent was a better way to go.  It turned out to be a more economical way than me doing the bookings.

 We settled on a route that is known as the Heart of Gold route. See agenda for the trip at:  http://www.alaskaferryvacations.com/Tours1_14DayHeartofGold.htm  As it was going to be autumn  (mid to late August), I figured that the gold referred to the autumnal colors.  Wrong on this.  The routing took us to the 1890’s Klondike Gold Rush sites, plus other required tourist sites of the state.  As a special bonus, our N.Z. great friends Liz and Dennis wanted to join our small tour group.

It is a long way to get to the ferry in Bellingham, Washington state from Nebraska and flights do get cancelled, delayed, etc.  To give us a little cushion, we decided to get to Seattle a couple of days early and see a few sites there.  This turned out to be a good choice, as Liz and Dennis were thinking the same way and we got to spend some time with them before getting to the ferry.  Even though this slutigram is mainly about Alaska and the Yukon, Territory of Canada, Seattle has a place in this story, as Seattle was the historic starting point for ships going to Alaska. 

Seattle is a city of about 670,000 people, with a metro area population of over 3.6 million.  It has a very good light rail and public bus system, which we rode to get to downtown and back on our first day in the city.  Pike’s Market is a district in the downtown where fresh fish, flowers, cheeses and other items are sold under one very large roof overlooking the harbor.   The very shot was on the TV show "Grey's Anatomy" this week.  The harbor, not the cheese.



Another interesting(?), yet disgusting site to see is the chewing gum wall.  For some reason people began removing their chewing gum from their mouths and sticking them on a wall in downtown Seattle.  Apparently the city health department sees no problem with this, so it remains for you to discover its location.

 
Latest information that Gary sent me in November 2015, is that the city finally washed off all this gum.  They estimated that there were over 1,000,000 gum deposits on the wall.  A very good use of taxpayer funds to count and estimate this.

Another place to see is the Museum of Flight, where we spent most of the day at.  The museum is across the road from the vast Boeing Aircraft assembly complex.  This building is the original Boeing facility, now a part of the museum.


If you want to learn about powered flight, this is the place to come to.


Exhibits range from early flight, such as one of the Wright Brother’s actual early planes.


To old and modern military and commercial aircraft.



Can see and get on board of a Concorde  
 and an Air Force One that carried presidents Eisenhower, Kennedy, Johnson, and Nixon, as well as VIPs such as Nikita Khrushchev and Henry Kissinger.  In 1962, it was replaced by a newer Boeing, but remained in the presidential fleet, ferrying VIPs and the vice-president, until June of 1996.

Enjoy lunch, al fresco, from the cafeteria.  The runway in the background is quite active with private flights and is the one that many newly manufactured Boeing aircraft take off from.


Finally, explore flight that is out of this world.  This is the training model of the shuttle that we saw at the Houston Space center in the January 2011 slutigram.


Alaska Ferry leaves from its Port at Bellingham, Washington, about 2 hours from Seattle.  A shuttle bus runs from downtown and the airport.  We had pre-booked the shuttle and were to get it at the airport, only a couple of miles from our hotel.  Good thing we asked the hotel driver to get us there early, as the regular driver for the hotel called in sick so they asked the maintenance man to get us to the airport.  His incompetence was amazing.  He had lived in the Seattle area all of his life (in his 50s or 60s) and proceeded to go in the wrong direction.  We told him this and he got even more lost.  After a half-an-hour of wrong turns, he finally got us to the airport, where our shuttle awaited.


The ferry was scheduled to leave at 6PM and we arrived by 3 PM.  When we say ferry, the picture you have in mind is probably wrong, as this was no “Weeping Water” South Dakota or Opononi, New Zealand type of ferry, but a large seagoing vessel.  It can transport maybe 150 vehicles, to include large semis and trailers and 400+ passengers.  We had booked staterooms on the ocean side.  Each room has a bathroom and roomy shower.


The ferry terminal had a very long line of passengers and vehicles waiting to board.  Here we met up with Gary and Elaine, now we were six in our group. 

 Travel is an adventure, and you accept that things do not always proceed as planned.  It seems that the ferry had some sort of mechanical problem with its exhaust system.  As a result our departure was to be delayed until a part was flown in or was it that repairs were made or whatever, never did find out what happened.  The ferry would not leave until 8 PM the following day.  This was not all that bad, as we then had the opportunity to explore the small seaside town of Bellingham, Washington and stock some provisions, as most meals were our own responsibility (unlike the cruise ships, food is not included).  For the day delay, the ferry gave us free meals in their very fine dining room.

 Once repairs were made, and Coast Guard approval given, we left port 26 hours later.  Once on board, Alaska Time Zone time is used, one hour earlier than Pacific Time Zone.


Shortly after leaving port, we were in Canadian waters.  We dined on board and were introduced to Alaska prices, quite expensive.  We planned to use our provisions instead of eating 3 meals a day on board; we planned to only eat one in the dining room. 

 The next day the seas were glass calm and we enjoyed the views of orcas and humpback whales breeching with some regularity. 



Passed a remote Canadian village and a lonely lighthouse flying the maple leaf flag.  Other than that, the Inside Passage world is one of water, rocks, sky and ancient pine forest.


 
 
 




Unlike cruise ships, where they allow you to bring maybe one bottle of wine on board, there are no such restrictions on the ferry, as many of the passengers are just travelling to their homes and businesses in Alaska.  Our provisions allowed us to have happy hour for the six of us each day for the 3 days we were on board.

The ferry allows you to sleep in the lounge or on deck (in tents, tied down with duct tape or in sleeping bags) if you do not want to pay the stateroom charge.  The ferry had public showers for those folks.  Also available were laundry rooms, one for men and one for women.  There was always a wait in the women’s, but I do the laundry, so we had fresh clean clothes before we landed. 

After breakfast the next day, the Captain gave us the bad news, the repair was not holding.  The Captain informed us that instead of cruising at 21 knots, we would cruise at 7 knots.  Furthermore, we would not be getting off at Juneau, but a Ketchikan – which is the furthest south port in Alaska.  Gary’s phone was working (remoteness did not affect his phone for some reason he had a few bars, while we did not) and he talked with our travel agent in Petersburg,  Alaska to inform her of the situation and ask that she make necessary alterations in our agenda.  We had already lost a day due to the repairs and now we had no idea how much more delayed we would be.  The Alaska Ferry people were great though out this all.  All meals were free and you could have whatever you wanted up to a high dollar figure.  Also, part of the fare was to be refunded.  After a few hours at 7 knots, the crew was able to maintain a 15 knot speed.  This meant that we could be on schedule if a flight could be arranged out of Ketchikan for the six of us.  All the while, the seas were glass calm and we just enjoyed the extended ride.  The lounge ran movies all day long and they were very interesting.  One was a documentary about a couple and their child who built their own cabin in the wilds of Alaska and overwintered.  Another was about the timber industry, one about the animals of the State, one on native peoples and one on fishing.  All very interesting, and it kept our focus on the wonders of this grand state and not on the failing motive power of the ferry Columbia..

The ferry docks in Ketchikan at 9AM, we are told we can stay on board all day if needed and meals are once again free.  It is foggy and rainy, which is normal for this small town.  We viewed 4 cruise ships that are docked near downtown, with hoards of people being expelled from them into the various trinket shops of Ketchikan.  Each ship holds 4 to 5 thousand tourists, plus the crew.  Even in spite of our mechanical troubles, we all agree that we are glad that we are not travelling with so many people.


Our itinerary is pretty much up in the air at this point in time, as we have not heard back from our travel agent.  After lunch, we take a walk into town, as there is cell phone receptivity everywhere in Ketchikan.

Our travel agent calls us with a new itinerary and says we are booked on a flight to Juneau at 5 PM.  The end result is we are to fly to Gustavus (Glacier Bay) one day later than originally booked and everything else is pushed back one day until we reach Dawson City, Yukon Territory, where we will spend one day not two.  After that we would be back on our original agenda.   Being mid-afternoon, we return to the ship and catch a bus to the ferry which takes you across a strait to the airport.  This is a regular Alaska Airlines flight to Juneau, with a stop in Sitka (the original capital of Russian Alaska).  All goes well and we are settled in our hotel in Juneau by 8 PM.  Our travel agent arranged a pickup at the airport, booked the room for us, and arranged transport back to the airport in the morning.  As I do not sleep well if I dine late, I chose a shower and bed.  The other five went out and had a very nice seafood meal.  The airport shuttle driver gives us the tourist talk about Juneau.  Juneau is about 35,000 in population.  It is the capital city of Alaska.  There are no roads connecting Juneau with any other places, so one gets in and out by air or sea.  Over half the adults here are government employees.  A bureaucrat’s paradise.  I’d go back to spend some time here as there are many touristy things to do.  Elaine would like the fishing trips that can be arranged.  Also, unlike most of Alaska, there are plenty of hotels and restaurants.

On the front page of the August 18, 2015 “Juneau Empire” a story entitled “Ferry Columbia docked again.”  The Columbia apparently has had some troubles.  It is the largest and, I think, the oldest ferry in their system.

A six-passenger plane, complete with pontoons awaited us.  Liz expressed some reservations about the plane, but it was a short and safe flight to Gustavus on Glacier Bay. 



The picture gives you some idea of the size of the plane.  This is the one we took out of Gustavus to Skagway after 2 days in Glacier Bay.  The Gustavus terminal is sort of small isn’t it?





As we depart the plane, the Glacier Bay Lodge shuttle awaits our party of six.  The driver tells us that the year round population is about 200 people; summer doubles it, excluding tourist of course.  We arrive at Glacier Bay Lodge, part of Glacier Bay National Park.  It is 12 miles from the airport to the lodge.  Most of what we see along the way is dense forest and thick mossy ground cover.
 
 


Glacier Bay is not just one small bay with a couple of glaciers.  It is over 92 miles long and has hundreds of glaciers.  It is a world of its own.



As our flight arrived by 10 AM, we had a whole day to take advantage of the activities at the lodge.  Our cruise onto the bay would be the next day.  The lodge itself has a large gift shop, dining room, very large gas fireplace, ranger exhibits, a theater, and a large outdoor deck, which overlooks the bay and boat dock.  After a rainy flight, the sun comes out and it is a very warm day.  We take a ranger narrated walk through the forest and see large Sitka Spruce, alder and hemlock trees.  The carving was done by a native to show how they used to mark the forest trails.



The broadleaf tree is the alder, which is more of a bush than a tree, as few grow to large size.  The soils are rocky and poor.  However, alder have an adaptation that allows them to get their nitrogen from the air itself and fix it in their roots.  Other trees and plants then can feed on this vital nutrient.  Obviously, the alder precedes the spruce and hemlock in colonizing an area.
 

The ranger explains all this to us as we take in nature’s beautiful work.  As the area is quite wet, the ground in the forest is covered in beds of thick, soft moss and loads of colorful fungi.




I don’t have much knowledge of fungi, but the ranger says there are over 1,600 varieties in the Park.  Here are the 1,600 – just kidding.



Throughout the forest, there are areas where water collects and the trees having shallow roots topple over, creating tannin colored pools, where water lilies and other plants thrive.


Flowers and plants abound along our walk.  Here are some of them that you may see if you are here at the right time of year. 

The bunch berry (edible), is said to taste like an apple.  As the ranger discouraged my grazing proclivities, I can only guess at the taste.  Apparently, bunch berry is a type of creeping dogwood.


The Devil’s club, covered in noxious spines.  The native people used the red seed berries from this plant to make a tea or an ointment to treat adult onset diabetes, rheumatoid arthritis, tuberculosis, as a paint source or to ward off evil.  The natives resist commercialization of these cures, as they regard the plant as sacred and it is slow to recover from damage that may be caused by human trespass.

Here are some more flowers for your enjoyment.
 
Surprised me that orchids grow in Alaska.  This is a calypso lady-slipper.

I think this is a queen's cup.


The above flowers are fireweeds.

When Dennis and Liz checked into their room, they looked out the window and saw a porcupine.  Quite a treat for them, as sadly, there are no porcupines in New Zealand.  At the end of our walk, we met up with a porcupine.  You can notice how safety conscious this particular porcupine was, crossing at the crosswalk.



Later that day, another short ranger-led walk brought us to the skeleton of a humpback whale.  In July of 2001 a cruise ship struck and killed Whale #68 (AKA Snow).  The carcass fed the wildlife and then the skeleton was prepared for display.  The cost of the display was paid for by the cruise ship company.
Pretty big animal.

We enjoyed a nice meal and an evening presentation on the tidal sea-life of Glacier Bay.  Differences between low and high tide have been recorded up to 21 feet, but normally are in the 16 to 17 foot range.  Still pretty impressive, unless you have been to Nova Scotia (see slutigram November 2008), where over 50 foot difference between low and high tide are normal.  These are not my photos, but were given to me by the Seaplane ticket agent in Gustavus – thank you.






After a restful sleep, we are off to see Glacier Bay from the water.  This is a much different experience than on a large cruise ship, as the smaller vessel can operate close to the shore and cruise ships are not allowed during seal mating season (don’t ask me when that is).  For the first hour or so, speed is limited to some slow speed to reduce the chance of hitting a whale.  Apparently, the whales don't go that many miles in, so speed can be higher once you pass the limit of their range.

A short history of Glacier Bay.  If you were in the area in 1680, there was no bay, just a broad river valley with Tlingit native settlements.  By 1750, the Little Ice Age sent a glacier jutting into the Pacific Ocean.  Since then, the glaciers have receded and left a deep fjord where the glacier had scoured out the former land.   A river valley generally has a v-shape, while a glacial carved valley is u-shaped.

By 1795, Capt Vancouver sailed 5 miles up the Bay. Naturalist John Muir was able to sail a further 40 miles up the Bay in 1879.  Hey, I thought this global warming was a recent phenomenon.  Today, you sail 65 miles up the Bay before encountering tidewater glaciers. 

Those 65 miles are a treat to experience.   Wildlife abounds.  On the water and seashore there are
porpoises,


 Stellar's sea lions (Stellar's sea lions have external ears and harbor seals do not). The white streaks on the rocks are the very pungent excrement of these animals.  One smells their roosts a mile away.

 
Sea otters looked like vacationers enjoying a float on the water.

 
As you sail up Glacier Bay it becomes bordered by mountains on all sides.  Mount Fairweather at 15,300 feet is visible most of the way, although the closest you get to it is about 50 miles.
 
 
We were pretty fortunate, as it was cloudy when we boarded our vessel, but the further up the bay we traveled, the clearer it became.  By the time we got to the glaciers, it was a sunny, with scattered clouds.


There was plenty of bird-life to observe.  Mostly gulls, but some other beautiful and seldom seen birds.  My favorites were the puffins, eagles and ducks.  The puffins look really strange when flying, something like a football being thrown through the air.


 

 
 
 


Large land animals were seen, although they were often too far to get a good picture, unless you have a very good telephoto lens on your camera.  Yes, we saw brown bears.  Seems like grizzly bears are brown bears, but they would rather call them brown bears than grizzlies for some reason.

 
There are black bears in the area also.  The brown bears chase them away, but we did see some.  Incidentally, never try to determine if you are facing a grizzly by its color, as they can be black, brown or grey.

 Look for white dots high up on steep hillsides and you may be rewarded with a view of mountain goats.  The rangers on the boat with us were very helpful in spotting the elusive wildlife and then telling us what they were.

The first moose in the area was seen in the 1960s.  They are here, but we did not see any.
 
After a couple hours on the water, we arrive at the tidewater glaciers of the Johns Hopkins Inlet.   Amazing to have been there.  Visually it is stunning to see the glaciers and to watch them calve (break off into the water).  Besides that, a low rumble and cracking can be heard, as the ice moves and cracks.  We’re not talking ice cube here, some blocks that drop into the water can be as big as a house.  The dirty appearance is caused by the mountain rock the glacier has ground down to small stones. 



 The waters near the glacier are covered in small icebergs, which birds and seals use as their rest areas.


 



The boat takes us to a few more glaciers.  They do look much alike one another in the photos, but not when you are there.

  

 From there, we boat down the bay on the west side, whereas on the way in we went up the east side of the bay and enjoy seeing the many more otters and sea lions. 

For those of you who are really adventurous, the boat takes on kayakers who spend a week camping and kayaking on these waters and islands.  We drop off some hardy souls.  We were supposed to pick up a group of four kayakers, but they were not at the rendezvous site.  If they don’t show up by 2 days later, a search party will try to locate them or their remains, should the bears have eaten their fill.  There are no cell phones, towns or even people out here; you are on your own.

The next morning, the shuttle takes the travelers back to Gustavus airport for the one-hour flight to Skagway on a single engine plane that seats 10.  The flight takes us over a bit of the bay and then over some mountain ridges.  Great way to get the feel of the terrain, as the highest you get is a couple thousand feet, and often much lower.


 


 

Here we arrive in the small town of Skagway, where our adventure will continue in the next slutigram.
 

 

 

 

 

 

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